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The Experts Speak

At SelectSmart.com we count ourselves fortunate to know so many people who are experts in the subjects of our selectors. Not surprisingly many of these very knowledgeable people are authors. They have generously shared excerpts from some their books on this page.

If you like the articles, buy the books! They're fun to read and full of great information.

A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.
SOME DOG FOOD PACKAGE BASICS by Cheryl S. Smith, author of Pudgy Pooch, Picky Pooch: A Pet Owner's Guide to Dog Food and Canine Nutrition
(Barrons, 1998, isbn 0-7641-0289-3)

Do you know what information can be found on dog food packages, and where to find it? The package label is actually designed to satisfy legal requirements. However, there are some useful facts available.

First, the statement "Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures have been conducted" means that the food has been fed to dogs, with good results. Though critics claim the test period is too short, it's better than no test period at all.

The guaranteed analysis is only a rough indication of nutritional value at best, but can let you compare relative levels of protein and fat between foods.

Ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. This can be deceiving. The label doesn't indicate whether dry weights or moisture-included weights are being used, and some ingredients may be listed one way and some the other. "Dressed chicken" or "chicken" appearing first in the list may seem very appealing. But chicken is a high-moisture product, and 70 percent of that weight is actually water.

Another bit of subterfuge is "splitting," listing a single type of ingredient by a variety of names to keep it from appearing too high on the list. If you added listings of corn gluten, ground corn, corn syrup, and corn germ meal, corn might become the first ingredient, rather than that water-heavy chicken.

The quality of an ingredient is not obvious simply from its name. In fact, no reference to the quality of ingredients is permitted on labeling.

Product freshness dating has become even more crucial with increased reliance on "natural" preservatives. There are four dating methods in general use. The international date code uses two numbers for the day of the month, two numbers for the month, and two for the year. So 270598 translates to the 27th day of the 5th month in 1998, or May 27, 1998.

Julian calendar dating counts the days of the year from start to finish, and adds the last two numbers, or sometimes only the last number, of the year. So 04599 (0459) means the 45th day of the year 1999, or February 14, 1999.

The month/day/year system is pretty obvious, much the same way you might write a date in your checkbook, minus the slashes. So 093098 equals September 30, 1998.

Finally, "Best before" dating uses the month/day/year format, but instead of manufacturing date, gives the date by which the product should be used.

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A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.
A SAMPLE BEHAVIOR FROM THE TRICK IS IN THE TRAINING:
WAVE/HIGH FIVE
by Cheryl S. Smith

Uses: A good "story" behavior, useful for weaving into a sequence of events. Can cheer the home team with a high five or wave at departing guests. A really strong wave or high five can improve reach in the front legs. Alternating left and right legs in quick succession gives some quick aerobic exercise.

Action: Kneel or stand in front of your dog (depending on the dog's height). Put the dog in a sit. Hold a treat in your closed hand. Hold the treat near the dog's mouth and encourage the dog to get the treat (while staying in a sit). Encourage the dog with "Get it" and also command "Wave," so you will be saying something like "Get it, wave, get it, wave." Once the dog knows the behavior, you will simply command "Wave." When a front paw comes off the ground, reward the dog with the treat. As you practice, try to reward a little better performance each time. Some dogs will try a lot of nuzzling, barking, and just sitting and staring. Be patient. Once you are getting a reliable performance, stand up. For wave, toss the treat as you gradually increase your distance from the dog. For high five, bend over only enough for the dog to be able to reach your outstretched hand with his paw.

Timing: Be sure to give the treat while the dog's paw is in the air or pawing at your hand. When your dog understands the command, withholding the treat will get the dog to repeat the action, thus creating an active wave.

Command: "Wave" or "High five"

Signal: For "Wave," hold your hand flat and wave it at the dog. For "High five," flatten your hand and extend it toward the dog. Your dog should perform these behaviors with either of his front feet. A signal with your right hand means the dog uses his left paw. Left hand means right paw. Lean your own body to encourage the dog to shift his weight onto the foot that will not be raised.

Problems: If the dog gets up, place him back in a Sit. Some dogs don't use their paws very much, and will not paw at your hand. With these dogs, you can use manipulation, picking the paw up as you give your command. When they are used to this action, they will reach toward your hand, and you can pull your hand back to get them to extend their leg. This method will take longer and won't result in a high flashy wave. You might want to call it "Shake." (In the book, this is illustrated with a full page of photos, as are all the behaviors.) (The Trick Is in the Training: 25 Fun Tricks to Teach Your Dog, Cheryl S. Smith, Barrons, 1998, isbn 0-7641-0492-6)

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A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF HIKING AND CAMPING WITH YOUR DOG by Cheryl S. Smith, author of On the Trail with Your Canine Companion
(Howell Book House, 1996, isbn 0-87605-442-4)

From the Introduction:
When we had set out, the sky was blue and clear. Now the clouds were so thick and low that only the next five feet of trail were visible. Even without visual reference, I knew the turns to take to backtrack, and, failing that, I could rely on the compass I carried. But I had always wondered whether in an emergency my dog would be of any help. Now seemed like a good time to conduct a test.

I stopped at a three-trail junction and tried to look and sound seriously distressed (fooling a dog about your emotional state is no easy task). "Oh no, Sundance, we're lost! Which way do we go?"

Not understanding that particular bit of English, my Keeshond companion just looked at me and waved her tail once to let me know she was listening. Now I used the phrase I knew would get results if any were going to be gotten: "Where's the car?"

Sundance, like most dogs allowed to accompany their humans on trips, viewed the car as an object of reverence only slightly less important than her food bowl. It took us to wonderful places, and it was a place in which she could wait and be sure of my speedy return. If she knew where the car was and accepted that I needed help in finding it, she would lead me to it.

She gave me a searching look. I doubt that she really believed we were lost, but she played along. After a few sniffs, she set off down the correct trail. I didn't have to ask her again. At some junctions, she stopped and carefully checked the choices before proceeding; others she just breezed on through (I would guess this depended on wind direction). Though we had passed or been passed by at least a dozen other hikers, some with their own dogs, Sundance had no trouble at all leading us directly back to the pull-out where the car was parked. Most of the pleasures of camping and hiking with dogs are less dramatic than wilderness rescue. Having a dog along provides security, companionship, and a heightened interest.

Paying attention to the responses of our dogs to their surroundings can help us enjoy wildlife we might not otherwise see. Canine vision is geared to seeing movement, and of course the canine sense of smell is so far beyond our own that it is nearly magical. Observing your dog's reaction to the wilderness can make hikes more interesting. And as accomplished hikers know, an interesting hike is an easier hike. You may find that you can cover more miles with your dog along than you can alone.

Your family pet could even become a working member of your outdoor excursions. A healthy dog can carry (in a pack) a fourth to a third of his or her weight. Imagine the dog carrying that rain slicker you thought you might need, or a flashlight in case you're late getting back, or even a change of shoes and socks for those times you slip while crossing river rocks.

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A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.
HOW TO RAISE A HEALTHY, WELL-ADJUSTED DOG 10 TIPS FOR SMALL DOGS 20 LBS. AND UNDER© By Darlene Arden, Author "The Irrepressible Toy Dog"© Published by Howell Book House isbn#0-87605-649-4

Ch. Cap'n Ebenezer of Woodridge (Neezie), a Yorkshire Terrier, appears on the dedication page of Ms. Arden's book.

  • You can have a happy, healthy, well-adjusted little dog. Keep in mind that he's a real dog but he does have special needs!
  • 1. Your little dog views the world differently. Everything looks gigantic to him. Stop and think about things from his perspective then try to see things from his point of view.
  • 2. Housebreaking is a big issue for little dogs. You must be gentle, patient and consistent, rewarding him when he does the right thing in the right place. Little dogs feel vulnerable outdoors. Be sure he has a safe place to relieve himself.
  • 3. Your small dog has feet. Be sure he uses them! Exercise is important to keep your little dog healthy.
  • 4. Little dogs, like big dogs, have to be socialized. Take your little dog to all sort of places and let him meet new people as well as experience new sights and smells.
  • 5. Be aware of your surroundings. Little dogs can be injured by big dogs that are running loose.
  • 6. Small dogs and small children are not a good mix. Toy dogs can be accidentally injured or killed by small children. Never leave them alone unsupervised and never let a child pick up a small dog. The dog can be accidentally dropped causing injury or even death.
  • 7. Use a harness instead of a collar when walking your dog. Toy dogs often have a collapsing trachea and you don't want to put pressure on that area.
  • 8. Enroll your little dog in an obedience class. Just be sure that the instructor uses positive reinforcement only - no choke collar! - and that all puppies are sorted by size for play period. You don't want your little puppy inadvertently injured or traumatized by a larger breed puppy during play.
  • 9. Play gentle games with your small dog. Don't play tug of war - not only is it the beginning of aggression training but a small dog can be swung around on a tug toy and injured.
  • 10. Ask your veterinarian to teach you to brush your small dog's teeth. Little dogs have crowded mouths and terrible dental problems. Dirty teeth can cause other health problems. Only use the flavored toothpaste that's made especially for dogs. Human toothpaste can cause digestive upsets if it's swallowed. CLICK HERE TO READ REVIEWS AND TO SUBMIT YOUR OWN

    A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.
    COMPETABILITY: BUILDING A PEACEABLE KINGDOM BETWEEN CATS AND DOGS IN THE BEGINNING…AND TODAY By Amy Shojai

    Did you know that about 35 million years ago, dogs and cats arose from the same ancestor? It was only 2 million years ago that they started to evolve into the very different creatures we recognize today. Early people so admired these creatures that they invited them to share their lives. Dogs were domesticated earlier than any other animal-more than 15,000 years ago. Cats crossed the threshold a bit latter, about 4000 years ago. Ever since, cats and dogs have enjoyed a special relationship with people.

    In fact, today more than 15 million U.S. households keep both cats and dogs. But despite having a many-times-great-grandfather in common, dogs and cats are distinctly different creatures with special needs. So it can be a challenge to integrate both into the same home-but it can be done. The key is to understand both.

    Here are some tips to remember when introducing dogs and cats. (excerpt from the chapter "When Worlds Collide")

    THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF PET DYNAMICS

  • 1. Introductions are much simpler when your resident pet already knows the rules of the house and is familiar with basic obedience.
  • 2. It's easier to introduce a newcomer cat to a resident dog than the other way around. The more socially oriented dog tends to be more accepting of newcomers than cats. However, cats prefer status quo, and any kind of change may be perceived as a threat.
  • 3. Resident adult pets, whether cat or dog, tend to accept youngsters more readily than a newcomer adult. A baby is less likely to challenge the resident pet's social status than an adult.
  • 4. The more space that's available, the less trouble you will have. Dogs and cats are both territorial creatures. When there's enough room to go around, there's less reason to squabble. When space is at a premium, offer more hiding places, toys, cat lookout posts, etc. to keep pets occupied.
  • 5. Both pets should be familiar with the territory before introductions are made. To even the playing field, the new pet should be allowed to explore the home without interference from the resident pet prior to introductions.
  • 6. Choosing complimentary pet personalities promotes good relationships. You'll have the least trouble when your resident pet is outgoing, curious, and interested, racing to investigate rather than running to hide.
  • 7. Matching a lap-sitter with a playful pet works well, because they don't challenge each other's preferred state of being. The playful pet may encourage a lap-potato pet to become more active, and the more sedentary pet may help calm down the energetic, on-the-go pet.
  • 8. Introduce a new pet to one resident pet at a time. It's not fair to the newcomer to be faced with a contingent of old-timers, and it's more difficult for you to supervise more than two at a time.
  • 9. Pay more attention to the resident pet. Yes, it's hard to dismiss that cute new kitten or puppy, but your resident pet will feel much more willing to accept the newcomer if they don't feel their affections have been usurped.
  • 10. Finally, patience is the key to successful competability. It may take days to weeks before the pets have figured out everybody's place, and established their own furry rules.

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    A recommended book! Click on the cover to order now.

    From "THE PURINA ENCYCLOPEDIA OF DOG CARE" A to Z--Did You Know? By Amy Shojai

  • Adoption is common in dogs, who often will "foster" another dog's puppies. And when in the right frame of mind, dogs may nurse and raise kittens or other species.
  • Bad breath can be a sign of diabetes? Dogs suffering from late-stage disease will have a sweetish-breath that smells like acetone-the stuff used to remove nail polish.
  • Chocolate is poisonous to dogs. The candy contains theobromine which has an action similar to caffeine and can speed up the heart. A 10-pound dog can get sick from licking off the frosting on a cake.
  • Dehydration can be deadly. A normal adult dog's total body water is about 60 percent of his body weight, and he'll suffer dehydration if he loses as little as 5 percent.
  • Eating style varies between dogs, but most are gorgers-especially hunting breeds like Beagles and Labrador Retrievers. They evolved to eat huge quantities at one time.
  • Fleas are the bane of dogs, with more than 250 kinds of fleas found in the United States. The most common type that afflicts dogs is Ctenocephalides felis - the cat flea.
  • Geriatric dogs live healthier and longer than ever before, due to better health care and nutrition throughout their life. Small dogs tend to live longer than large dogs.
  • Hunting behavior has been refined through domestication so that certain breeds rely more on their scenting ability, others on sight, some retrieve or flush game, and others herd.
  • Immunity develops in puppies several weeks after birth. Prior to that, the mother dog's first milk (colostrum) provides a transient protection.
  • Jumping up is the dog's way of saying "howdy!" Dogs greet each other by aiming attention at the dominant animal's eyes and mouth-they can't reach people without jumping up.
  • Kidney disease is common in older dogs. Dogs rarely show signs of illness until up to 70 percent of kidney function is gone.
  • Lyme disease, carried by ticks, also affects dogs. The typical signs are limping. There is a vaccination available for dogs who live in endemic regions.
  • Marking behavior includes leg-lifting, which places urine at nose-height. Dogs read these canine Post-It notes to learn about other animals in the area.
  • Neutering reduces and in some cases eliminates roaming and aggressive behavior, as well as certain kinds of cancer.
  • Otitis means inflammation of the ear. Dogs with floppy ears are more prone to otitis than erect-eared dogs, due to poorer air circulation.
  • Panting is the dog's way of air-conditioning his body. Dogs don't have sweat glands like people, so they cool off by means of moisture evaporation from the tongue.
  • Quarantine is the isolation of a dog for a period of time to prevent the potential spread of disease or pests to other pets or people.
  • Restraint techniques are used to keep dogs from moving so they can be safely medicated or transported.
  • Submission is ritualized behavior, a way for the dog to "cry uncle." Rolling on the back to expose the throat or tummy, and urinating, is the ultimate submissive posture.
  • Ticks are a common skin parasite of dogs which also transmit diseases, including Lyme disease, tick paralysis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, and babesiosis.
  • Uveitis refers to inflammation of the iris (colored part of the dog's eye) and is a painful condition that needs immediate veterinary treatment. Signs include squinting and color change to the eye.
  • Vomiting is common in dogs, and can be caused by more than 30 different conditions.
  • Whiskers are found in four places on each side of the head and in two places on the lower jaw. These specialized hairs act like antennae as sensors, to protect the eyes and keep the chin from scraping the ground.
  • X rays, technically called radiographs, are a diagnostic tool used to see inside the dog's body.
  • Zinc-responsive dermatosis refers to skin problems caused by a deficiency of zinc in the diet. Alaskan Malamutes, Bull Terriers, Samoyeds, and Siberian Huskies may inherit a genetic defect that interferes with the proper absorption of zinc.